Coldfoot Alaska: Arctic Gear

While I was visiting Coldfoot, I met lots of interesting people. There was a family from Mexico, a father and son from Texas, a guy from England, two women from Colombia, a couple from Spain. One of the major issues most of them had was with what to bring in terms of clothing. Many of them bought boots and things specifically for the trip, and none of it was warm enough. So I thought I'd post a few comments on what really works to keep you warm and what doesn't, as well as a few tips I gathered from inside sources (i.e folks who live and work up there).
I know that many people will just bring what they have and make due, and that's fine, but if you are going to go out and buy stuff, it might be helpful to know what you should be looking for. Also I guess I should mention this is all about gear for the extreme cold. This isn't for 40 degree days in the spring time or the middle of the summer.

Arctic Boots by Northern Outfitters

OK. So first off is foot wear. This held the most disappointment for the people I spoke to. Many of them had gone out and purchased boots costing anywhere from $70 to $120 and none of them worked. In extremely cold weather what you need is a boot that has no rubber on the body of the boot, is at least a half size (if not a whole size) larger than your foot, and has a very thick padded sole.
The boots my brother has are made by Northern Outfitters, and cost $120. They are called "Mountain Pack Arctic Boots". These are the best boots I've ever worn in cold weather. They are huge and make your feet look three times the normal size, but the work. They had about 4" of insulation between the bottom of my foot and the ground and they were really comfortable.
If you aren't interested in spending that kind of money then I'd suggest getting a pair of ski boots a size or so larger, and doubling or tripling your socks. Try to get something waterproof, but do not get rubber rain boots with a liner. Your feet will freeze.
Most of us aren't going to go out and spend $500 for a coat rated to -50 degrees. But besides that my recommendation would be your warmest coat that is windproof. The windproof part is critical. At extremely cold temperatures the wind cuts through canvas and other materials like a knife. Also if you have a coat with an attached parka hood, and deep pockets that's all the better.
About half the people I saw didn't have snow pants. I didn't the first time I went, and it was miserable. One night we went out to watch the Aurora, and I had on a warm coat and jeans. My jeans did nothing to keep me warm, even with long johns on underneath. I felt like I was half naked. My legs actually hurt they were so cold. It was only about -2 at the time, so I can't imagine what it would feel like at -20. I also went for a hike without snow pants, and  I got snow under my jeans, and had nerve damage on the outside of my ankles for about a year. No joke. Even if you get cheap snow pants (try looking at a thrift store if you only want them for the trip) it is 100 times better than no snow pants. The elastic on the bottom covers your boots, and helps keep snow out. This year I brought a good pair, and it made a world of difference. Also, while we are on the subject of pants, here is a tip for what to wear under snow pants. Avoid jeans. They just don't work. Instead go for a pair of long johns, a comfortable pair of yoga pants or sweats. If it's really cold do both.  I brought two pairs of jeans and one pair of sweats and I wore the sweats almost every day, because they were much more comfortable and warm.

Fleece neck gaiter by Carharrt

The next thing is layering. I brought turtle necks, t-shirts, a vest,  a sweatshirt, and a big turtleneck sweater. The sweater didn't work when I wore it by itself. It made me really sweaty, and then when I'd move a certain way I got a surprisingly chilly breeze up my back. I constantly felt too hot or too cold. Layering is the way to go. I did a combination of turtleneck, t-shirt, then vest/sweater on top of that, and then my coat. This was the perfect arrangement for me, and it kept me warm, but not too hot. Having a couple layers close to your skin, and then adding a couple looser ones on top helps regulate body temperature. And when it got warmer (or I did) I was able to adjust the layers to make myself more comfortable. Lots of folks up there wear plaid shirts as a top layer, or a light fleece sweatshirt.
In terms of hand wear I suggest mittens over gloves (or maybe a combination of thin gloves under mittens). Gloves separate fingers and make them colder in my experience. Mittens keep my fingers warmer, and I can ball up my fists when I am really cold to protect them. And of course the usual hat/scarf. In the arctic the hats with the ear flaps would probably work best. I had a regular knit hat, and my ears still got cold somehow. I wish I'd brought a fleece headband to wear underneath. An alternative to the traditional scarf is the fleece neck gaiter. This keeps your neck and your face warm and is ideal for dog sledding. My brother actually made sure I bought one before we left Fairbanks, and it was a good call. I wore it almost every day.
Well, that's all I can think of. Good luck and hope this helps if you ever plan a trip to the Arctic in winter!

Coldfoot Alaska: How Cold is Cold?

Frosty after dog sledding.

Living in California I realize that my concept of what is cold may be a little warped. It rarely gets below 35 degrees even in the dead of winter. But this last trip up to Coldfoot has educated me. 
The first day I was in Fairbanks it was 0 degrees outside. At 0 degrees, the hairs in your nose freeze every time you breathe in and defrost every time you exhale. Your eyes water for no reason, and every exposed centimeter of skin feels like it's been dipped in liquid nitrogen. And after that it just hurts. Most of me was covered, but my face suffered almost instantly. I kept putting my mittens up to block the wind. At 0 degrees groceries will freeze in your car if left to long, and cars won't even start sometimes! In Fairbanks most places had parking spots where you could plug in an engine warmer, and almost every vehicle I saw had a little plug sticking out of the front of it.
When I got to Coldfoot the temperature dropped to -30, and surprisingly that didn't feel all that much colder. It almost felt warmer. That could be because it was less windy and maybe I just didn't notice. Or it could have been because I was better outfitted with snow pants, and something to cover my face. It kind of hurt my eyeballs a little though. And again, if I took my mitten off for a second, my hand was frozen. My brother says that at -30 and below the thing you have to understand is how quickly you can get frostbite. At higher temperatures, it takes longer to freeze you fingers and toes all the way through. But at super cold temps it sometimes only takes a minute or two. That goes for the skin on your face, and your ears etc. 
My advice to those who plan to be out and about in the ultra cold is to be very aware of any exposed area of your body. Most of the covered areas were toasty warm, but when my face started to hurt, or my ears became numb, or my fingers icy,  from trying to manipulate my camera I immediately adjusted to the situation. Sometimes that meant pulling my hands inside my jacket, or inserting them between my neck and my scarf where it was warm. Sometimes it was pulling my parka hood completely over my face for a few seconds, sometimes it meant going inside and getting a warmer hat, and then wrapping an extra scarf over my ears. The thing to keep in mind (at least what I have been told) is that it takes a lot longer to get frostbite on parts that are covered. It may not feel any different (i.e. your hands might still feel cold) but it does matter.
My last two days in Coldfoot hovered around 30 degrees. When I stepped outside the first morning  and it was 17 degrees it actually felt warm! Like I didn't bother to zip my coat or put a hat on. I wasn't trying to be "tough" it just really did feel warm. As the temperatures climbed another strange thing started happening, all my clothes started to get wet. My mittens, my boots (which were OK in negative temperatures) got soaked, and then froze into a block of ice, my scarf got sweaty and so did my hair under my hat. Then when a big gust of wind would shoot up the valley all of it seemed to freeze on my body. The coldest I was the entire trip was the afternoon the temperature stayed about 30 degrees. I felt wet and cold, and my fingers and toes ached. That didn't happen at negative temperatures.
I've concluded that some of the difference must have to do with a.) the humidity in the air. At -20, there is almost no moisture, so most of the air around your body may be cold but it is dry as well. At 30 degrees that's all different. There is much more moisture in the air, and b.) Everything is wetter when it is warmer. If you don't have waterproof gear then you are in trouble. The snow is stickier, surfaces are wet, and that accumulates on your boots, in your hair, on you hat, etc. It is just more uncomfortable. Like being in a drizzly rain.
I am clearly not an expert on cold temperatures, having only spent a week up there, but I think that it was helpful to have someone explain to me what's most important at what temperatures. Bottom line:
Utra cold = cover up EVERYTHING.
moderately cold = Waterproof gear (boots, mittens, pants)

Rainbows 2

This has really been the year for rainbows! Have seen probably 15 or 16 since the first rain of this year! I don't remember ever having seen so many! Here are a couple more of the better ones I was able to snap a photo of! The first I saw while waiting for a parking spot at Walgreens, and the second is over my house (my blue car is parked in front) a couple days later! I love rainbows they are so cheerful and such pretty phenomenon of nature!

Blame it on the Rain

First rainy morning on my patio of the season!

Despite the fact that I've already had a couple challenging moments this morning, I am in a fairly good mood. This is surprising since my modus operandi when confronted with a "problem" is to dwell on it obsessively and clench my jaw until I have a headache. But not so today. Despite my frustration I am actually feeling pretty good. I think it's because it rained this morning for the first time in....oh geez, months for sure! It was a light barely-there rain, but it still rained, and it was lovely and cool and invigorating. And I believe it soothed my brain just enough to keep my chin up. It's the first day of rain...yay!

October Nights

I have had a great day! It's been busy, but great. I started out a Panera, where I consumed a gallon of coffee and planned out my day. I followed that by nailing down some not-so-far-off Xmas plans. After that I went shopping! Not for clothes, (although I did take two vests up to the checkout, but I put them both back at the last minute), but for items that I decided I wanted more. Like what? Flowers for my patio, a couple of pumpkins, some jelly sticky things to put on my kitchen windows...you know, the important stuff;)
Then I came home and cleaned, I mean really CLEANED my patio. Yep! All the scary mouse nests in the outdoor storage closet that have been haunting my dreams, the cob webs, the leaves the rolly-polly bug comunes that have established themselves under all my plants...all cleaned. NOTE no rolly-polly bugs were killed in the making of my habitable patio.
Then I went to yoga. It was awesome. I got all stretched out and relaxed. I even went and sat in the hot tub for a while after just for exra measure.
I was going to go to the local high school football game, but it started later than I thought. It's not a big deal though because the football field is only a quarter mile (as the crow flies) so so I can hear everything that is happening from home. BTW it's 3rd and 10.
And the weather is finally cooperating! It's a beautiful Autumn night. Not too cold, but a little chilly. And there is that ...something on the wind that whispers fall. The drums from the high school band, and the breeze , absent the smell of scorched flora and asphalt, silently screaming a change. A change of season, a change of...rhythm. I am so cool with that.
There is a balance that must always be struck between what you are waiting for and where you are. I think that's something I couldn't possibly inderstand when I was younger, but I do now. I've grown I guess. Or more accurately I've grown up. I've finally discovered that there is a whole life to be lived and appreciated while waiting for something else to happen. And I embrace it. I am looking so forward to Thanskstoberfestoween, and Leif Erickson Day, and Thanksgiving and Christmas, and Christmas 2! But I am also enjoying right now. I'm enjoying my (mostly) clean house, and super clean patio. I'm enjoying the air outside, the smell of things, the sound of the breeze through the trees,  and the comfoting hum of traffic on the highway.
I try not to comment too often on religious things, but I can't close this without saying this. At least in my experience, religion has focused on a destination. The only thing that really mattered is where you end up "in the end".
I fundamentally disagree with that. I  think the greatest mistake a person can make is to think that wherever they are, right now, is less valuable than somewhere they may or not be in the future. My personal opinion is that if you actually take a minute to think about yourself, and your life, and the lives of the people you love, that you will find that there is NOTHING that could be grater or more beautiful or fufilling than what is right in front of you, right now. The idea of heaven is a moot point for me at this juncture in my life. Everything I'd really want to have in heaven I've got right here.
And it's a beautiful world.

Rainy Days and Mondays

I can't believe it! It's raining outside! That rarely happens this late in the spring here, but weather doesn't care about things like that.
It's not pouring or anything, in fact it's barely sprinkling, but it's enough to scent the air with a sweet dampness, and make long for Christmas time.
You might not believe me, but the air sometimes smells like maple syrup when it rains like this. It's only ever happened here in California, and usually only once or twice a year. I guess it must just be pine sap and something else mixing together, but I haven't been able to discover it's source yet. It is more of a late spring/early summer phenomenon, and so maybe it has something to do with cooling of hot trees or the soaking of pine needles and flowers on the dry earth ? It's...delicious, and such a lovely way for the air to smell. It's fresh and cozy all at the same time.
It's also cooler than it has been, and so I am gently held captive by nostalgic thoughts of baking cookies, wrapping presents and the holidays.
If I could explain how this morning feels it's like having the window cracked in the kitchen while eating fluffy pancakes on a rainy Christmas morning....sigh...so happy.

The Air Out There

The weather is changing. And it's during the chaotic shifting of seasons that I enjoy it the most. In my mind I picture the seasons like...different bodies of water, and the point where they collide with each other, mixing and  forming eddies is the most interesting, unpredictable and beautiful in my opinion. That's what it feels like now. We had a really rainy spring, and I totally enjoyed every minute and ounce of it, but in the last week or so I have smelled summer in the air. One minute it's foggy, cold, and the air smells like Christmas, and then an hour later it's sunny, and HOT, and smells like four o'clock in the afternoon on the 4th of July. It's really great. The proximity of the different "moods" of these strange days to each other really makes you sit up an notice the change in temperature, smells and all the subtle contrasts that would normally escape you. Sometimes, you can experience all four seasons ONE day! Those are the best of the best!  For example:

Leaving the house in the morning I might smell rain, and a crispness in the air that is typical of late winter early spring. I might pull my scarf tighter around my neck and regret having worn a skirt as the wind wraps me in it's damp icy fingers. I might notice the low laying gray clouds hugging the mountain tops on my way to the office, and flick my windshield wipers on for a couple passes to clear the tiny beads of mist from the glass.

Then around noon as I take a walk to the grocery store to get my apple, I might have to put on and take off my sunglasses three or four times as the clouds battle with the sun for supremacy. I might feel the heat starting to radiate from the road into the soles of my feet, but then the autumn-like breeze erases all traces of it...momentarily. Maybe the last of the dead leaves from fall are shaken from the branches of some trees while the newly budded leaves of the poplar trees rustle and sparkle in the bursts of sunshine. It's like an eddy of spring and fall rolling across the landscape, crashing into the trees and me.

Then after work, I might don my sweats and decide to go for a run. I might step out into the blazing sun, and have to squint in the brightness. Beads of sweat begin to form even before I start. The sun won out, and is beating down on everything like a heat lamp turned on high. I might make my way down the sidewalk as scents of summer hit me one after another, all distinct and ...dry roasted. Pine needles, asphalt, barbecue, licorice, bay laurel, whiz past my nose as I follow my route. A burst of spice might fill the air as I pass under a pepper tree, grinding the little seeds with my shoes. The sticky scent of jasmine might descend upon me as I run past the hedge, so thick that I feel almost like I am running through honey. There is no moisture though, it has been squeezed away, banished to the coast. It's like running in a sauna.

Then at night, after dinner and dark, I might decide to take the trash out. The heat of the day has vanished. It's almost like it never existed at all. It's cool,  like it was in the morning, but still dry. It's invigorating. Wind chimes sound from the neighbors patio and I look up at the cloudless sky and full moon. It feels like a late fall/ early winter eve. If you could bottle and sell air, this is the kind everyone would rush to the store to buy. Fresh, clean, clear, and just slightly fragrant. I might head back inside, crack the kitchen window for the burst of freshness, and then turn on my fireplace and put on my warm socks and watch a movie.

All that can happen on a spring (or fall) day out here in California. And those are the days I love the most.

Cloud Cover

A few months back I was sitting at home reading, when I noticed the light from outside had taken on a deep...glowing feel. Curious I stepped outside and was confronted with some of the most beautiful cloud structures I've ever seen in my life. There was a storm  front moving in from the west (from the Pacific) into the clear skies that had been overhead all day, and I was able to snap a couple photo's as the sunset progressed.

Tornado? Or Not?

Fallen Tree 

While at home in Michigan for the Labor Day weekend, there were three things I wanted to accomplish (besides visit with family) The first was go out on the boat, the second to enjoy a good old fashioned thunder storm, and the third was to visit the biggest Christmas store in the world.
Well, the thunderstorm did happen, although it got a little rougher than I was hoping. We'd been on the boat all afternoon, but decided to call it a day when some dark ominous clouds presented themselves on the horizon to the west. We'd been home for about an hour, and I'd just made a cup of coffee, when the thunder began. My dad and I opened some windows that faced north so we could look out and really take in the storm.

Top of tree on cottage

It happened so quickly it's a little hard to remember exactly what happened. It started pouring rain. Not gently but buckets. Then it the wind picked up and it was raining horizontally, from north to south right through the windows. And then it began to hail. It was then that Dad gathered us all together and we rushed downstairs. As we looked out the windows, the siding on the side of the building began flapping, and all sorts of things were being banged around outside. The boat that we'd just been on, was pushed by the wind on it's trailer about 8 to 10 feet away from the truck where it had been disconnected. The storm was really something to behold. The whole thing was over in about five minutes. It continued to rain and thunder, but not like before. We went outside to take a look around and noticed that some of the shingles on the roof were lifted a little, and that the fence on the side of the dumpster had blown down. Several fire trucks and other emergency response vehicles zoomed by, most of them going down the streets just behind us.

Tree on camper

Afterward we went to check on my grandmother and uncle, and saw the downed trees, including one that fell on a cottage, that littered the neighborhood. Thankfully no one was hurt. The storm and the damage was limited to about a quarter mile around where we were. I don't know for sure if it was a tornado, but it was definitely the closest thing to one I have ever experienced.